Let me start off this letter by saying how very special our arrival in Tahiti was due to our very good friends Jean-Luc and Eva on yacht Reve De Lune who awaited our arrival and came across to our yacht to present us with flowers as a welcoming gift ...
In this photo Ana wears the crown of flowers presented to her by Jean-Luc and Eva ...
Eva, in all her beautiful enthusiasm to present these flowers stepped backwards and toppled into the water. She had to then board Impi totally drenched and it just goes to show what lengths these special folk will go to in order to make us feel welcome!
Well as per our last letter, we had spent the night off Point Venus having crossed from the Tuamotu Archipelago.
In the photo below 'Yacht Tempest' anchored in the bay off Point Venus'
Bob and Anette had only arrived in the dark hours of the morning but were happy to move along anyway, and so we lifted anchor and set off for Papeete - the entrance into 'Baie des Orangers', known as 'Passe De Papeete'.
Along the way we watched as Tempest had to do quite a brisk manoeuvre to avoid colliding with a whale which we found quite astonishing.
We were warned to contact the 'Port Authority' by hailing on VHF ch 12 five minutes before our estimated time of arrival to the pass entrance in order to have permission to enter the port.
I quickly volunteered Ana for the task of 'radio operator' since she speaks fluent French.
Ana did a wonderful job of communicating with the authorities who asked us to wait to the port side of the entrance for a fast approaching ferry from Moorea.
The arrival procedure is 'the IALA system of buoyage' ... to keep the 'red marker' to port side and the rules of the channel are to do likewise when transiting the channel in a westerly direction. Interestingly enough this also means that if one were to use the entrance of Passe Taapuna, this would mean entering with the red to port side and then at the first cardinal buoy by to adhere to 'Inside the lagoon' rules which requires 'switching across the channel' to keep the green markers port side whilst moving in an easterly direction.
Having obtained the clearance to enter the port we headed to round a little motu known as 'Moto One' or 'Racife Soatoi' which bears a 'South Cardinal Marker' (keep south of this marker) and since one is required to obtain clearance to pass the airport runway, we used this as our initial contact mark to request such permission yet again on VHF ch 12.We were instructed to call again at the yellow (special buoy) marker where we obtained airport clearance.
And if one thinks this would be the end of the procedure in making way up the canal for the anchorage off Marina Taina ... well ... one would be mistaken since clearance yet again is required before passing the opposite side of the runway.
In the photo below Impi approaches the airport:
The colour of the water changes as one views it from various angles to the sun ...
I must say that cruising up the canal alongside the airport, to me, was a beautiful experience. Here we had gone through all this 'radio work', a reminder of all the systems and controls put in place ... a reminder of being part of the 'big city life' again ... yet, the colours of deep blues and light blues in the water ... the mirror gloss finish of the water in the canal protected by a huge reef system to the starboard side where the ocean relentlessly punches at it with its massive waves ... had such an appeal to me ... my inner peace ... a tranquil beauty which somehow dominated in the surrounding chaos created by man.
In this photo above Tempest can be seen not far behind and proceeding up the canal:
Make no mistake about it, it was nice to be in some sort of civilisation again ... you know ... just for a while. It is places like this where we can sort our maintenance issues, buy spare parts for 'all things yachting', engage the skills of marine electricians and the like ... to stock up with food and wine and meet fellow sailors at the dock restaurant and pub ... you know ... mingle a bit and so on!
We were to find that Papeete is not cheap. My goodness ... these guys sure know how to charge and it is very expensive although I must say we were able to buy a large screen TV set which is a Smart TV at a very affordable price and wirelessly streams movies, photos and the like from a laptop or any other wireless device. I have a weakness with these sorts of things ... I mean ... I really DO.
Fellow sailors always smile when they look through Impi and see our large remote control lying on the bed ... 'Whats that for?' they ask.
'Oh well, thats our Raymarine Plotter Remote. You see, we can turn on the TV at our bed and toggle the buttons to see what is on the display upstairs, like wind, direction of travel, speed and all our charts including radar and AIS which shows where ships are in relation to us, and this little toggle here turns on the cameras so we can see how the sails are set and what the surrounds look like from mast height, and this little toggle turns on all the spreader lights at night so we can see ....'
and this of course produces 'ohhs and aahs' from the men whilst the ladies just shake their heads in disbelief. And now, of course, we can display the same information to our new flat screen TV which is yet another visual aid in navigation.
I am so easily side tracked ... am I not ... now where were we ...
Oh yeah ... here we were cruising up this channel and headed for an anchorage off Marina Taina.
Just before we approached the anchorage we observed a hotel with those beautiful rooms built on stilts that hover over the water ... you know ... like the ones I showed photo's of in our Tuamotu (Rangiroa) letters.
I always love the look of these 'huts' suspended above the sea ...
And just a short distance on we came across the anchorage ... there were many yachts at the time ...
The channel separates the anchorage between anchored yachts and moored yachts.
To the left side yachts are anchored and to stay there costs ... nada, nothing and nil ...
To the right side are mooring balls one can tie to and although most take their chances that no one will ask for money, the marinas boat does come around and collect.
In this photo above, some yachts on mooring balls and in the backdrop one sees the island of Moorea ...
Well ... we are 'cheap' and we decided to anchor and despite 'limited space' here, we forged our way in.
By the way, the choice between anchoring and mooring for me is easy. If depth is not an issue for anchoring and the seabed is of good holding material ... then I am anchoring EVERY TIME!
We have come across too many people now who have had mooring balls come adrift and although most realised in time to save their yachts from ending up on the reef, some have not been as fortunate and despite being told by marina companies the moorings are safe, have in-fact had lines break and their yachts lost. Of course having the 'RIGHT' anchor goes a long way to being safe.
Ana and I called the port manager by phone to notify him that we had arrived and we scheduled an appointment to meet with him.
Many sailors do not realise this as a requirement in these islands and some have ended up on 'the wrong side of the authorities' and at great frustration and some expense managed to eventually obtain clearance required at the time of departure. Oh, and to think the Gendarmerie do not check up on boats ... well they certainly checked us and those around us whilst we were there, so best do it right.
A ride down the canal by dinghy to the main dock in the port eventually saw us arrive and find our way to the port manager. His office is located where the Ferry tickets are sold.
Other forms of transport into town include the services of a bus at a price of the equivalent of $2 but as we discovered some bus drivers will charge different rates and some will not charge at all.
In the photo below Ana waits at the bus stop in town
The port manager was a very helpful individual and after checking through all our papers gave us valuable advice on Papeete, procedures for clearing out etc. as well as maps of the city and so on.
He had no information to offer on the VERY CONFLICTING stories we were hearing about 'permitted length of stay' for individuals and yachts and furthermore did not want to even 'hint' in that direction since he had found himself in trouble with the authorities before when he 'incorrectly advised' sailors of this.
What is clear, is that a yacht may stay here for 18 months after which import duties have to be paid.
It is said that visitors without EU passports can only stay for 3 months and that one must not bargain on getting extensions and that they need to post a bond on arrival (the equivalent cost of an air-ticket back home to your country of citizenship), which will be paid back to you on departure less some administrative expenses.
However, laws are changing and we believe some people have managed to obtain the right to be here for 1 year and that without bearing an EU passport and EU passport holders say they can stay forever and some even work from their yachts. However, sailors who stay longer than 18 months have to pay import duties on their yachts and if one wishes to work here then duty is payable immediately. Please do not take this as 'factual' ... the laws are chopping and changing regularly and we are also advised that the 'individual' authority one deals with has the power to decide on one's fate!
As we spoke to more and more folk who live here and in discussion with some new friends, it became evident that the politics in Tahiti is in turmoil. Many locals display an anger toward the French and other sailors who come here 'to take away their job opportunities' ... they, in fact, want France to give their country back to them whilst others realise the 'economic support' they have in being French Islands. People are really divided on this issue but both Ana and I, having observed the people and the city agree that these people could never be successful without French intervention. Simply put ... and I am no politician, the local people, as wonderful and generous as they are, are too lazy to keep the establishment going.
The people of Tahiti in general really have been very kind and gentle to Ana and I. It is incredible to find such humble people with such incredible generosity and a spirit of care for their fellow human beings. We have found this to be true of most people in Tahiti ... they lack that selfish ambition which sharpens aggressive competition between mankind as we see in first world countries ... they live simply and do not seem to measure success by what they have against those who do not.
Sadly, our overall impression of Tahiti is one of ... hmmm... would you understand if I used the term 'higeldy pigeldy' ... natural beauty being destroyed ... lack of structure ... and by that I do not only mean the contrasting buildings which stand side by side but also the governance of the island. No one quite seems to know what the law really states and we are told it is because of a continuous change in government officials.
Anyway, we also had terrific fun in Tahiti ... we looked past a lot of the local 'issues' and focussed on the positive.
A spectacular evening was an event we were invited to along with our friends on Catamaran Cattitude, Liz and Gordon Tourlamain, skipper Steve and also joined by Sascha and Skylar from Catamaran Tribe, where we had supper and drinks at the hotel we had passed as we entered along the canal. Here we were entertained by local dancers who put on a terrific display of early day dancing rituals ... marked by heavy tattoos as most 'Polynesians' and many 'Tahitians' are they drum up the crowd who enthusiastically watch these oiled muscular beings doing what I can only compare to as 'The HAKA', in dance style.
So, here we were admiring this all taking place ... I was minding my own business and taking photographs when suddenly the men appeared between the tables looking for volunteer dancers.
I fiddled about with my camera making sure not to make eye contact with any of these fellas .... you know ... I don't exist, sort of thing ... whilst apparently, Liz and Ana were pointing at me and encouraging them to select me amongst others to clearly make fools of ourselves and make these men look REALLY GOOD ... right ...
Well ok, I was to be a dancer ... it could have been worse right ... like a few years ago, I could actually be in a pot cooked for the tribe and now ... yeah ... I was to dance with these fellas instead.
So dance ... I did!
I thought I was doing quite well actually ... the crowd seemed to be struggling to contain themselves for laughter though ... I mean, at one point these fellas even drop onto their stomachs and do some weird movement ... right ... well, I did pushups ... I mean whats funny about that ... and to cap it off I even pulled off one or two 'one armed pushups' ... I thought that was pretty ok.
To understand the situation more fully ... these dancers are very aggressive in their dance and facial expressions. It makes them seem 'mean' and tough individuals. Ana says even they were now struggling to keep the 'smirk' off their faces ... and I was thinking 'hey .. I'm like a rocket ship up here on the stage' ...
Sadly, the only 'standing ovation' was that within in my own mind ...
Anyway, we thoroughly enjoyed the evening and loved watching these terrific performances by very skilled and fit people.
As you can imagine, I heard about my dancing skills for some days after event ... continuously heard that how, when everyone was turning to the left I was the only one going right .. and so on!
There is much to tell about Tahiti, but as with every city there are so many facets and angles to the people, religion, culture and the like and I could spend a month writing about all of this.
I think what impressed us most were the people of Tahiti ... their friendliness and generosity to us will be an everlasting impression for me of Tahiti ... and for that matter, all the islands we have visited in French Polynesia thus far.
Below are some more photos we took ...
Ana checks out some of the baskets made by hand and for sale at the market place ...
Below, canons and statues on a 'square' in town ...
Sunsets as seen from the anchorage are AMAZING ...
The island of Moorea seen from Tahiti over a calm and clear day
This can be seen at the following blog site:
http://fun-impi.blogspot.com/2013/09/sailing-with-animals-in-french.html
and
http://fun-impi.blogspot.com/2013/09/french-polynesia-paradoxical-politics.html
In summary:
- We are hugely impressed by the welcoming, humble and generous attitude of the local people of Tahiti.
- The government hopefully is working to sort out the 'unfriendly and complicated laws' that make sailors feel unwelcome. Apparently the newly appointed government is 'bringing new hope' in this regard and already have 'relaxed' certain constricting regulations for visiting tourists.
- Do not expect to find authorities who have a thorough knowledge of their own laws. Keep your 'nose clean' and comply where possible. Don't ask too many questions as you may well find that in order to 'preserve their position' you get dealt 'the wrong hand'.
- Supplies are readily available but be prepared to reach deep into the pockets
- Do not expect the beauty one is accustomed to as with other islands.
- Do see the local dancing ... it is terrific fun and although not as authentic as on other islands, is skilful and a great show
- When shopping, do not only shop at the 'impressive huge' Carrefour shopping complex, but take a right turn out of the gates at Marina Taina and walk down the road past a gas station to find a well priced 'supermarket' called 'La marina'. There is also a hardware store called 'Mr Bricolage' in Faa'a near the airport and to give an example of pricing, we priced certain small batteries at Carrefour at $5 per battery and at the hardware store the same batteries and brand sold for $2 per battery.
BELOW IS FURTHER INFORMATION FOR SAILORS and may be of no interest to readers not sailing:
As a matter of reference for SAILMAKERS, we need to say that we are highly impressed by the prompt, professional services of one sailmaker, 'Michel Uentz' at Phaeton Voiles who can be contacted at number
(689) 576 607
email: phaeton.voiles@mail.pf
Michel was VERY impressed with the exceptional quality in build of our asymmetric (which Ana refers to as 'the beast') by Quantum Sails (now known as Ullman Sails), saying he has yet to see a better build from any other sailmaker in the world.
You may recall from our earlier letters that this sail had separated near the head when we were hit by an unexpected squall.
Michel advised us that he could rebuild the head by stitching in various components that in the future would not allow for clean break like this, and would cause 'progressive failure'. By doing this, in future one part of the sail would separate before the next, making it obvious before the entire sail tears and ends up in the water.
Having an engineering background, this really impressed me!
As for doing any sort of warranty work or any work requiring the importation of spares ... BEWARE!
We had an issue with our Spectra Watermaker and contacted Spectra USA regarding this.
Spectra were 'superstars' in the sense that they could not do enough for us. These people do not quibble and get to the business of honouring any warranty issues promptly and efficiently.
Despite this warranty repair, the agent in Tahiti warned us that the cost of shipping and import duty would be for our account. I said this was fine but when the bill arrived I nearly choked.
Be sure to get ALL costs mentioned up-front before going ahead with the work. The suppliers here try their best to 'disguise' the cost of taxes and importation for the obvious reason that you will pay double that of the value of the part in the USA when all is said and done ... if not more.
Pro marine
 |
BP 40611 Fare Tony
Papeete 98713 Tahiti |
Gilles Pascalin
Tel: +689 75 78 56 |
The import duties on spares are EXORBITANT and the bill was a few dollars short of $1000.00.
I, for obvious reasons, was not happy about this and local suppliers were quick to mention that clearly the authorities in Tahiti are 'milking people' for their hard earned dollars in order to 'get the economic deficit' straightened out.
What they do not realise is their lack of foresight in the short term approach to this as almost all sailors we spoke to said for this reason they try by all means to NEVER have work done in Tahiti ... and for the people of Tahiti ... MISSED OPPORTUNITIES!
I spoke with the local owner of the chandlery (supplier of marine supplies) who advised me that this taxation was crippling their business and that the paperwork required to have parts arrive duty free was so complex that 'agents' charge the most exorbitant prices to obtain exemption that it is hardly worth the while.
If you are ever in a situation where you cannot help but to import spares for your vessel, I would highly recommend discussing the issue with an 'agent' with the name 'Laurent'.
Laurent is a very clued up individual and has the ability to even advise and assist with issues such as 'the bond' required at immigration for non-EU passport holders and may advise how to have permission granted for an 'extended stay'.
Laurent can be contacted at (689) 704 875. SA citizens would benefit by making use of his services.
When it comes to ELECTRICAL WORK, there is ONE man to contact, a man who is so busy it is difficult to get a 'slot in his schedule' but who is considered the best person available in Tahiti ... Patrick Roger of Electricite Marine can be contact at
(689) 30 18 20
email: patricknoelle@yahoo.fr
At the time of writing this letter he charges $45 per hour.
Patrick speaks a limited amount of English but can communicate well enough for those who do not speak French.
He also carries with him a number of fancy gadgets and the latest equipment for testing batteries and circuits etc.
For DIESEL and oils, you can contact the marina manager at Marina Taina on VHF ch 9.
The manager of the marina 'Phillipe' told fellow sailors they no longer were permitted to buy diesel in 'containers' and had to bring the yacht along side the jetty at the entrance to the marina. Apparently this is to 'avoid' sailors 'selling on' duty free diesel to the locals ... personally I don't think so!
We did not purchase diesel here.
Dinghy Theft ... we were advised to always lock the dinghy at the dinghy dock as many dinghies in the past have been stolen here.
CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION for sailors:
If you have cleared in at 'the other islands', you will have been issued with a carbon copy of your registration which is on a 'white paper' and is addressed to Customs in Tahiti. You need to buy a stamp and post this on, which then does away with any further registration on arrival in Tahiti apart from the visit to the Harbour Master / Yachtmaster (Ken Vernaudon at Bureau des Yachts).
VERY IMPORTANT : BE REGISTERED 'IN' WITH THE YACHTMASTER TO GET THE NECESSARY CLEARANCE. Not doing this will complicate matters for you 'down the line'.
Ken is contacted at (689) 47 48 54 and email at bureaudesyachts@portppt.pf.
An email to Ken advising him of your arrival prior to arriving goes a 'long way' but in our case we simply called him from the anchorage on a Friday to advise we were in. He turn set an appointment for monday.
MANDATORY when departing (sailing more than 50 miles away from Tahiti) is to notify the Yachtmaster by email 2 days before departure and to notify him of your intended cruising plan. This notification has to include the boats name, the captains name and your destination. When departing from the country to a foreign country, the clearance can be picked up at the Immigration office on the day of departure and you can also take on DUTY FREE FUEL with this clearance.
Otherwise, the Yachtmaster will transfer your clearance to your email address (stamped and signed by the yacht master) and NO DUTY FREE FUEL can be obtained with this form.
In any event, when you leave the country you will need to visit Customs and Immigration.
Always keep emails for future reference. Personally, I do not think one will be 'brought to book' if mistakenly have done something wrong if you can show that you took care in communicating and advising and this is best done by keeping records and emails ... for ... 'just in-case'.
If you have not entered at another port, you will have to go through all other formalities such as IMMIGRATION (689) 80 06 05 and will need to meet them at FAA'A Airport.
This is mandatory if
a). you are arriving straight from another port
b). you are leaving straight towards a foreign country
c). someone else is embarking or disembarking
CUSTOMS (689) 50 55 87. You will need to meet with customs in 'MOTU UTA-PAPEETE' if:
a). You have not mailed your 'WHITE CUSTOMS SHEET' from the first port touched in French Polynesia
b). You are coming straight from or leaving straight towards another country.
CURRENT LEGISLATION REGARDING BOATS ARRIVING IN FRENCH POLYNESIA:
Arriving from abroad you must display a French and foreign flag and the Quarantine flag (yellow) for the purposes of navigating these waters for your own pleasure (i.e. you do not work in French Polynesia), your BOAT is entitled to stay in FP without being 'cleared through customs' and without being subjected to pay import taxes and duties, for a MAXIMUM LIMIT of 18 CONSECUTIVE MONTHS, subject to the following terms and conditions:
a). Owner or user of boat:
- MUST NOT be a resident in French Polynesia
- MUST NOT work in the Polynesian territory
b). The Boat:
- MUST be registered outside the customs territory of French Polynesia
- MUST be owned by a natural or legal person outside the customs territory of French Polynesia
- CANNOT be loaned, rented or sold.
If you wish to stay longer, or clear your boat, you have to WRITE to the SERVICE DES DOUANES (Customs Service), setting up your reasons.
If you work here, you must clear your boat IMMEDIATELY.
The Customs declaration form must be filled in and sent by post or telefaxed as soon as possible and definitely not later than 24 hours of your arrival.
WHEN LEAVING (DEPARTURE): contact the Service Des Douanes of Papeete, or, if you are on another island, send a new customs declaration for exit , by post to the same authority.
NB: This formality is necessary for your peace of mind, safety and to avoid any trouble at your next destination.
The Customs Address is:
Service des douanes, bureau de douane de Papeete port, (Service de la plaisance), BP 9006, Motu Uta, 98 713 Papeete, Tahiti, Polynesie Francaise. Tel: (+689) 50 55 79 or 50 55 87, fax: (+689) 50 55 95. Internet email: croc-polynesie@douane.pf
All the above information will be handed to you on paper by the Yachtmaster, but I felt it best to share this with you as we could not find 'clear information' on this process prior to our own arrival.
A BIT MORE ON DUTY FREE DIESEL:
There is conflicting information about this.
We were told by the Yachtmaster, that our agent was not entitled to charge us the aprox. equivalent of $150 for the clearance.
Yet, in Hiva Oa, the gendarmerie who functions as customs authority recommended we make use of the services of this agent.
It would appear to us, that the paperwork is a 'tedious process' which is probably why customs in Hiva Oa told us to follow this process, however, the Yachtmaster advised we should have asked for the relevant forms, filled it and sent it off to Tahiti ourselves, in which case, clearance will be issued for duty free diesel free of charge.
We paid for the service and got our clearance and have benefitted from purchasing diesel duty free.
Diesel PER LITRE, at the time of writing, costs about 168 XPF at the regular price and costs 100 XPF with the presentation of a duty free form.
The current exchange rate to US $ is about 86 XPF to a US$
IMPORTANT: When going to the station for fuel you MUST have with you the 'Duty Free License' and 'The Customs Declaration' AND MUST HAVE PHOTOCOPIES to leave with the station.
The people we dealt with at the various stations WILL NOT PHOTOCOPY paperwork for you, not even when offering to pay for it!
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