Hi family, friends and fellow sailors,
We left the atoll of Fakarava in perfectly calm weather through the pass called ‘Passe Temakohua’ on the south side of Atoll Fakarava … felt such a deep emotion in the heart to be leaving this wonderful place, but of course this feeling was ‘countered' by excitement to be visiting a new adventure in the wildness of Tahanea.
Leaving Fakarava through the south pass (video link)
Tahanea is one of those atolls that are uninhabited and less visited by cruisers, however, there is more and more talk amongst sailors of an inquisitiveness to visit here on account of its natural beauty.
Our sail to Tahanea saw us leave in the afternoon and just as the sun was setting … to collect the predicted northerly wind later on and into the night, and yes, it was a struggle to keep the speed down for an arrival in day light hours.
Our sail was pleasant enough although we had many unexpected squalls during the night which made for some interesting moments as we found ourselves scrambling topside to reduce sail from time to time in pouring rain and whistling winds … only to find moments later a need to increase the sail area again …
We arrived at Tahanea on an outgoing current which saw some moderate wave activity being generated … our timing was such that it was to get worse before getting better over the next few hours, so we decided to go ahead and enter rather than to wait for calm passage on the next slack tide.
At Tahanea, there are 3 closely spaced passes into the lagoon … our preferred and chosen pass was the middle pass called Passe Teavatapu at waypoint 16 50.9630 S 144 41.0066 W and the angle of approach we used through the pass 190*T.
As we passed the last section of ’turbulence in stationary waves' there was that amazing feeling as the water was smooth but travelled at speed toward and past us. This effect generates a ‘ripple’ across the surface and provides a false sense of calm, yet here, the water is flowing easily at 8 knots speed.
Entering this pass during a strong ‘outflow' all sets the scene for a feeling of speed but when looking at the shoreline it becomes evident that the boat is gaining very little distance in-spite of high revs to the engines.
Once on the inside, we turned northward and anchored just off the little motu called ‘Teuakiri’ at 16 51.0710 S 144 41.5630 W.
Yet again the anchorage was full of coral heads which of course required dropping the anchor between these.
Our arrival saw us feeling a bit disappointed … I mean … this place had been 'trumped up' as being a magnificent paradise visited by so few … a place where we would probably be the only yacht and people present within the atoll … and yet, here we were ... it had a ‘bland sort of look’ when compared to South Fakarava.
We lowered the dinghy to explore the little motus for a while, walked along the eastern shore of Teuakiri which, on entry, is also the starboard (right side) shoreline of the pass (‘Passe Teavatapu’ where we had just entered). Walking along this shoreline one quickly realises the treacherous side to the pass and why sailors are so wary when entering passes from the sea into these atolls in the Tuamotu Archipelago.
Of course the little motu which stands guard to this entrance into the atoll is windswept and the entire area ’speaks of’ encounters and battled scars with severe storms over a lifetime. A sign board had blown to the ground … Ana and I tried to make sense of the sand beaten painted lettering which at closest guess, appeared to be declaring the atoll of Tahanea as a ‘protected park territory’.
Of course we are aware that the atoll of TAHANEA is a protected sanctuary … especially declared so on account of a very rare little bird … only found here in the Tuamotu Archipelago … in-fact, only found here on the atoll of TAHANEA where there are no rats to destroy them … less than 100 in number and dwindling … the Tuamotu Sandpiper .
Curiosity killed the cat, so they say … which is probably a relief for the Tuamotu Sand Piper … and curiosity of this little bird was to be on our 'list of reasons’ to be sailing here … the hope to see this little bird.
We had been told by locals that the Tuamotu Sandpiper is not easily spotted and are generally found toward the south / south easterly side of the atoll.
Anyway … here I am getting ahead of myself as usual.
So Impi spent the night anchored behind this ‘forlorn motu’. Forlorn as it is, it did prove its worth as being a perfect shelter from the northerly wind,which of course we really appreciated as we caught up with some much needed sleep after a night of adjusting sails continuously to match the squalls passing overhead.
Feeling somewhat disappointed especially after some snorkelling on these coral heads which had been described to us as 'being superb’, but we found to be mildly ...’ok’ ... we decided to lift anchor and head for a new location to the south east … and did so by following the coast line all the way to a spot where our anchor would eventually greet sand off a little motu at position 16 58.1410 S 144 36.0670 W .
The approach to this position saw us cruising over many coral heads and avoiding some obstructions too shallow to pass over, so, it is important here to be vigilant!
In the photo below … a coral head at the waters surface. Of course this is easily spotted but in certain light and with a slightly lower elevation could serve as the ideal position for ones yacht to become a permanent navigational marker for years to come …
A quick note here … sharing information … a cautionary note for sailors who are planning a visit to Tahanea …. one quickly observes on the various charts that there is very little information regarding depths, contours, spot soundings and the like for this atoll. Once one passes the eastern most position of the 3 passes, this same information is no longer accurate … well, most certainly true of all the charts we used!
We followed the only contour seen along the coast on our Navionics chart … the 5m contour which turned out rather to be a 20m contour (that is better than the other way around at least)... Oh, and the various ‘heads’ marked by Navionics as being 5m depths, are mostly just below if not at the surface, so we took NO COMFORT in these charts for TAHANEA.
We suggest one plans on having good light and being SUPER CAUTIOUS … Impi literally missed a coral head by meters in very good visibility … we did not see it until it was alongside us!
We use Google Earth to plot positions of ‘obvious’ obstructions as seen from overhead and this really is a terrific guide, but, despite all the care and long hours of planning, we realised TAHANEA was still to be an area treated with respect and suspicion when it comes to navigation.
Anyway, at anchor now in the South East region of Tahanea, we lowered the dinghy and set off to explore the various surrounding islands which we found to be beautiful …
In these photos, what appear to be footprints in the sand are actually holes dug by crabs …
Any fear we had of being disappointed with the atoll after first arriving, soon was replaced with an overwhelming sense of delight and appreciation for its amazing, natural beauty.
Nature here is just incredible … there is such a feeling of vastness … these turquoise blue waters which reflect into greens and dapple back into purples and so on depending on sun and cloud feels to be a 'trick of the eyes’ …
TAHANEA has so many unspoilt little motus dotted about and we were determined to visit each and every one … the photo below was also a spot we really treasured …
Here on the very first motu we set foot on, we observed such magnificent bird life …
A look up into the trees revealed nests of white fluffy young Bobbies …
Ana and I were quite startled, since we had walked under some trees a number of times … noticed bobbies flying about doing wonderful aerobatic manoeuvres … incredible swooping displays especially intended for our distraction.
We were to discover this to be a ploy to distract us from their young.
On low lying trees I observed young bobbies and was able to get fairly close to them to take some photographs …
On one of the islands made up of nothing but dead corals that had been washed ashore during hurricanes and storms, we even observed a nest with egg decorated with sea shells … the mother arrived whilst we were there. It is incredible to think a bird would nest here when there are so many beautiful little motus (islands) dotted about …
All along this region, if one looks on Google Earth there are these fascinating sandbars which curve out from island to island …
Well, we delighted in walking across these for miles and miles on end … we felt so overwhelmingly ‘charged by nature’ doing this for real … you know … we see these interesting shapes on Google Earth that look so idyllic, and yes … these sandbanks certainly are …
Hopefully the photo below gives a clearer view of these sandbanks relative to the Google Earth view …
This region has to be one of the most peaceful and picturesque places on earth … the ONLY sounds to be heard here are those sung out by mother nature herself … amazing …
Ana and I spent some days here taking the dinghy and canoe down to see some motus up along the western shoreline too.
We were starting to feel hungry and were far from where Impi lay to anchor … so … it is an island after all … plenty of food right … coconuts !
Ana sneaks in a photo me as I find the perfect use for our boat hook
The landscapes along this coast are also too magnificent for words …
As has been with much of the Tuamotu Archipelago, there is this tremendous feeling of vastness … a vastness of beauty … these shades of blues, greens … I feel I want to explore this region forever …
And I speak not only for myself here .. it amazes me how Ana just keeps going at it … she is keen to see every inch of this atoll …
In fact, Ana mentioned to me a number of times, that this atoll feels to her, to be one with ‘ancient ties’ and much history for the people of Polynesia
In the photo below one can see in this area where there is evidence of archeological investigation, the rounded ‘grinders’ formed by ancient people for grinding food.
And all around this area there are diggings and profiles showing layers of corals built up over time …
In the photo below, layers have been ‘peeled away’ to reveal the secrets of how this landmass was built … and sure enough, there it is … layers upon layers upon layers of corals. Solidified areas in between signify more ‘stable weather conditions’ where the corals are not churned up and deposited on the shores, and of course conversely, the layers of broken coral bits reveal those years of storms ...
Ana scratched about for a while and came up with this massive clam shell …now totally solidified into ‘rock’ with the hands of time …
Oh … and lets not forget to show some photographs of what makes this region a protected sanctuary … We eventually did get to observe the special little birds which make this a protected territory …The Tuamotu Sandpiper … we were thrilled to take these photos ...
In this photo we spot a coconut husk on the beach. On closer inspection we see a little bird sitting inside it …
The bird spots me with my camera … ‘Uh Oh, who is this fella with that long thing’ … he says … (I am referring to the camera folks)
I think I will go and have a better look at this dude …
Aggg, its a bloody tourist … arrived here on his floating island … best do a quick pose and get rid of him already …
‘Hey Bud … done with me now?’
A quick wink … show off my dirty yellow legs …
737
And out of here ... Back to being my 'protecters species old self' ... a Tuamotu Sand Piper ...
Well, we have so many photos to share of this magnificent place, but of course there is a limit to what we can share so I guess its time to sign out …
This motu … TAHANEA … is certainly one we will always remember for its natural beauty … a place to relax … a place to admire Gods creation and truly a place that proved to us, that it is not always first impressions that count!
No comments:
Post a Comment