We have spent quite some time in Wickham Cay as we have work to do on Impi which hopefully will bring us even more luxury in the form of cool air!
Wickham Cay is not my favorite anchorage although it can look beautiful at night.
Taken from on board Impi at anchor in Wickham Cay ... the moon rising above the mountain behind
We have been incredibly busy visiting friends, islands and especially with the installation of our new air conditioners which has proved to be a bit more technical than I had initially envisaged.
Thanks to Kent at Just Catamarans, our air conditioners arrived in Tortola viz. Tropical Shipping.
The arrival was announced by way of a telephone call from Tropical Shipping to say we should meet at their offices and to bring along $230 (being the cost of shipping) which we duly did.
Having paid the money we were then advised that we should see a shipping clearance agent (next door) as paperwork and new legislation make it difficult to get the goods released from customs.
Having paid some $30 for the paperwork, we headed on over to the Customs Head Office to 'negotiate' with the customs officials the duty that was to be levied on our goods ... I had felt it was unfair to be charged excessive duties on goods that were being fitted to a 'vessel in transit'.
We had been advised that we would be wasting our time with the officials who have a reputation for being 'difficult' but to be honest we found the opposite to be true!
Ana and I were met by a gentleman who initially and in a very polite and friendly manner explained why 'technically' we could be considered not to be a vessel in transit and why we should pay the full duty on our goods ... not something we were keen to understand fully ....
After a lengthy conversation I advised the official that I was going to opt for the option of coming along the customs dock with Impi where we would load our goods and have his water officials escort me out of BVI waters to make sure the goods left the country (thus saving me the cost of paying import duties and in fact then qualifying us as a 'vessel in transit').
He asked me where I would sail to and I told him that St Martin (which is regarded as a duty free port) was within a days reach and it was there that I would have the unit installed together with the other work (such as anti-fouling etc) which I had been planning to do at Wickham Cay. Furthermore, I said it was sad for the BVI to be loosing work to neighboring islands over technical issues like this when in fact I really am a yacht preparing to sail out of BVI waters within the next month or two as soon as the work is completed.
He asked me to wait whilst he proceeded behind closed doors ... it was evident that he was consulting with others.
To my surprise, he returned and said it would be sad to have a yacht leave when in fact people on his island could do with the employment opportunities, and that they, the BVI government were seriously considering ways to make the island more user friendly to yachtsman who wish to carry out work and repairs to their vessels.
However, he would require that we pay some form of duty and that he would be keeping an eye on the situation to make sure we are indeed a yacht in transit ... and we agreed on a sum of 10% of the duty that would have been payable.
Ana and I were so impressed to come across an official who understood the bigger picture for his country, the desire to see that his fellow citizens got the work which otherwise was going to a neighboring island and the professional, friendly and efficient manner with which this man had conducted the transaction gave us hope for fellow yachtsman to be seeing the BVI's as a great destination in the near future for doing repairs to their vessels.
Having spent some time debating the topic, we left his office realizing that the BVI's were an island which took tourism very seriously. This had become apparent to us when we first arrived and met with Immigration to discuss our intention to remain in BVI waters over the hurricane season ... the eagerness on behalf of the official who heard our request to understand how we as 'cruisers' live at sea, how we feel welcomed or not by officials on various islands, what we spend money on etc. etc.
We were able to share with her what it was we disliked about a number of islands in the Caribbean and why it was always such a pleasure to visit the French Islands. The French make entry and exit freely and easily available to cruisers and the perception right from the onset is that because we are not being lambasted with heavy entry fees and paperwork, the French Islands, although not cheap with many products, in fact make one feel we are getting value for money. This is largely due to a 'lack of desperation' when entering their waters in that no one is sitting there waiting to rip you off!
We also shared that we enjoyed the fact that upon entering the BVI islands we were not being harassed by 'boat boys' miles out to sea which was a frustration for us throughout the Caribbean Islands ... except of course the French Islands which do not allow it.
She listened intently, nodding and asking questions and taking notes throughout ... The BVI's are SERIOUS about making their cruising grounds a pleasant experience for yachtsmen.
The one thing I cautioned her and other officials who have indicated a willingness to hear the good news along with the bad news, is the fact that in some bays on some islands it is getting to the point where it is near impossible to drop anchor for sheer numbers of mooring balls which attract an overnight fee of around $30 per night ... something that is fine for people who charter a yacht for a week or two but not for serious cruisers who live at sea every night of the year. This I felt was going to be off putting for people who want to cruise these waters and as such care should be taken to see to it that the 'freedom of sailing' be maintained in the British Virgin Islands which would guarantee more visitors here!
I must say that both Ana and I have enjoyed and appreciated the willingness of people in power on these islands to seriously listen and show interest in what we have to say ... right from our first chat with the Prime minister of Grenada the Hon. Tillman Thomas who willingly engaged with us and was interested in our lives at sea, to the Immigration and Customs officials here in the BVI's.
This shows an eagerness on the part of certain leaders to do what it takes to ensure their people prosper by encouraging tourists to enjoy visiting their islands!
Anyway ... and as per usual ... side tracked for a while ...
We had arrived at the customs yard with paperwork in hand to collect our goods but not without coming across what seemed initially to be a rather grumpy official who did not like the fact that regulations were changing and there was a more flexible approach entering the system!
We spent some time being 'interrogated here' and initially we were left feeling despair after the good work his colleague, clearly his senior, had done and eventually this was followed by a phone call and we were pleased to hear the words 'yes sir, yes sir' as the official we had met with earlier on briefed him. This same 'grumpy' official actually became friendly toward us and we realized that he obviously has to put up with many 'chancers' who try all sorts of tactics to avoid paying duty.
I asked this official if he could recommend a taxi or some other means of transport to take our units down to the dock for us. To our surprise he offered to assist me with his truck which he pointed to through his office window. We were surprised and gratefully accepted.
So here we were, watching our packages being checked and then loaded onto the customs officials truck and sitting up front with him were driven right to the quay where our dingy was tied to the dock.
A friend of ours walked past looking somewhat bewildered as the official (in full uniform) assisted us to off load the goods at the dingy ... something he said he had never seen before in the entire time he has stayed in the BVI's ... he said it had to be a 'South African' thing!
Of course the entire process had been legitimate and above board ... these people displayed a willingness to do what is right, whilst at the same time to be flexible and friendly ... they certainly will see us visiting their islands again in the future!
So, here we were, dingy loaded to the hilt and splashing our way across the bay to where Impi lay at anchor.
I will not be telling you a lie if I said that getting the units from the dingy onto the yacht was a spectacle to behold. I think there was a moment where Ana decided it best to disappear for a minute or two as I performed many maneuvers including the splits, a semi head stand and various other poses as the units moved form dingy across water to yacht!
As it is with home improvements and renovations, so it is with installing new devises into yachts. Poor Ana has had to put her full trust in me as cupboards and shelves get dismantled and air conditioning units find their new homes.
To this:
We have opted to install two 16000 BTU units as well as a 5000 BTU unit on board Impi.
The 5000 BTU under the bed seen as white object bottom
Ana would make these delicious 'sandwiches' to keep me going whilst working
To further complicate the matter, all wiring needs to be considered for the day we may decide to sell / trade Impi and as such would want the new owner to have the ability to switch between 50Hz cycle and 60Hz cycle. This ability would increase the market in which to sell, as well as ... hopefully ... the value of the yacht!
I have learnt an incredible amount of knowledge about electricity from the local electrician who is assisting with the wiring and explaining the difference between the US 110V system verses the European 220V system and how 50 and 60 hz play a role in all this.
To further complicate the issue, we are planning to run the two 16000 BTU units by means of our generator whilst the 5000 BTU will maintain cool air over our bed at night viz. the batteries and inverters without the need for a generator to be running.
These units also require ducting (long pipes) which need to be placed with as few bends and kinks in the system as possible to keep air flow efficiency at optimum, and will carry air all over the boat to where it will be required.
All electrical wiring is 'special' of course ... we are using heavier duty wire than required since I am a bit of an 'over engineering freak' and the wire is especially 'tinned' which prevents corrosion in a marine climate.
Back in South Africa, we had found that it was difficult to run wiring from the generator to the switch panel due to a lack of space as we already had had a number of electrical additions to the vessel which meant the wiring ducts were occupied.
This was a concern to me as I wondered where I could route the wiring for the air conditioners.
I stripped panels and ceilings and waited for nightfall. When it was dark, I placed torches and lanterns all over in various positions and then took photographs by placing my hand with the camera into tight places where I could not physically get my head into. I wished I had an optic cable with a camera on the end.
This process of shining light and taking photographs revealed a nice huge channel over the top of the sliding door which could accommodate hundreds of wires from the generator to the switchboard if necessary. This excited me and I began to crawl into cupboards and under floorboards discovering new alley ways for wiring and piping ... a cupboard in the guest cabin revealed a hidden panel which once removed was actually the floor on which the electrical panel was located. This was great news as what had always been difficult access in the past from a wiring point of view now revealed a straight forward 'open highway' for wiring.
The electrician who works here locally and has worked on many similar vessels was amazed to see this asking how on earth we had figured this out ... amazing what light can reveal in the dark!
Installing raw water cooling filters in the bilge for the air conditioners
Anyway, we now have to obtain the correct ducting to direct airflow all over the boat. Apparently the ducting needs to be 'coated' with special material as otherwise the difference in temperature of air inside the pipe / duct and that immediately outside causes severe condensation in these warm climates which makes for a 'damp boat' ... something we are really pleased Impi is not!
Dodging weather!
So ... we must admit a certain amount of complacency was beginning to set in.
We had been told by all and sundry that we were crazy to be spending our time in the BVI's ... especially throughout hurricane season!
Of course we had had the odd scare which developed into no more of a storm than we had experienced before at sea and hurricane season is nearly at it's end!
But .... not so fast ... here we are ... just having fled from approaching Tropical Storm Rafael which suddenly became a huge threat to us in the BVI's and now just passed us is a well developed hurricane!
Ana and I had been watching the system as it rolled across the Atlantic ...
We consulted some local people about the system but were told it would not develop into anything of significance. As we watched it get 'thicker' upon approaching the Caribbean Islands, we decided it was time to lift anchor in Deadman's Bay off Peter Island and head for Wickham Cay where we would be closer to a tie down spot. We had noticed strange shaped clouds developing, the odd sudden gust of wind, dark skies which dropped rain in buckets and then became blue just as soon afterwards, sunsets and sunrises that were.... uhmmm .... 'different'... a falling barometer. Of course I reflected on the captain of the Rhone who tapped on his barometer glass and watched in wonder as it dropped. In those years this time of year was considered to be outside of the hurricane season ... we all know of the fate of the Rhone!
I met with the gentleman who usually has a dock available for us to tie down to. Clearly he was overwhelmed with yachts and certainly had no space available for us which was rather concerning!
I telephoned Nanny Cay and spoke to the Marina manager Brendan who said the marina was filling up fast but that he had a space available at just under $100 per day. We had to pre-book and there was no option to cancel ... a quick decision which we took.
To our amazement we found ourselves one yacht away from our good friends 'the Fehrsens' on their yacht Champolion.
This was great fun as we spent good quality time together chatting and eating at the local restaurant ...
Ana and Hannah (Fehrsen) walked around taking photographs at Nanny Cay ...
Before long other friends who we had met through Gareth and Jenna Donaldson arrived on their yacht Swish ... Brian and Roma (also ex- South Africans) and reversed into the dock opposite us. Of course we got together for drinks and had great chats about sailing and life in general which made the stay at Nanny Cay a pleasant one.
Of course ... we all were constantly aware in the 'back of our minds' that Rafael the 'Tropical Storm' was approaching ... and now we were being warned the system may develop into hurricane status.
This saw us tying Impi to the dock with a spider web of lines and getting the boat 'hurricane ready'. We worked relentlessly to have the boat ready for Rafael which was now predicted as a direct hit overhead the BVI's ... how does one ever get to a point where the boat is 'ready enough'?
Finally the storm was upon us ... it had slowed down over the islands but was also gathering momentum ...
We watched again as the barometer continued to fall ... rain fell and then cleared ... the clouds turned the skies grey but odd pockets of stunningly clear blue could be seen in between. Sunsets were amazing but eerie ... the water was flat and calm ... too calm ... the night was quiet ... too quiet ...
On the odd occasion Impi would rock against its ropes and I would emerge on deck from below thinking the moment was here ... but it was not and all was calm ... when was Rafael going to strike?
We woke up the following morning ... it was hot and there was not a breath of wind to be felt. All was calm. I heard some people chatting on the dock as they walked passed and one said to the other 'How cool is that ... Rafael just did a side step around the BVI's'
I turned on the computer and looked at the 'hurricane site' ... the satellite photography revealed an amazing picture ... clearly one could see that Rafael had spun toward the BVI's and then did a 'jiggle to the east' side stepping the islands entirely ... wow, this was such good news.
What followed of course was excessive rain and relatively strong winds today. We greeted our friends at Nanny Cay and waved good bye to the Fehrsens as we left the dock in brisk gusting wind and exited between the channel markers into an excited sea toward Wickham Cay once again where we want to prepare for the completion of our air conditioning units.
Sadly Thomas (son) and Lucy cannot come to the BVI's as initially thought so we have planned to haul Impi out earlier for the hull to be prepared and re-painted with antifoul. This will of course be another busy period for us!
Once we have completed the work, Ana and I will take Impi for a last circuit (during this circumnavigation anyway) of the BVI's ... perhaps a week or two before heading off to the Bahamas. Terry and Yolande (son and girlfriend) will meet us there and possibly Thomas and Lucy (son and fiance) too ...
For now we are safely at anchor and see no bad weather systems approaching ... we are mid October and end November is officially the last of the hurricane season here in the BVI's ...
It has been a fantastic time to be in the BVI's ... we have pretty much had the place to ourselves, something one definitely does not have during the busy season.
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