28 Sept 2012 Salt Island and the graves of the RMS Rhone passengers

As usual we are having a terrific time here in the British Virgin Islands ... we have to pinch ourselves continuously to make sure this is not all but a dream!

We had decided to head for Salt Island ...

I took this photo later during the day from on top of the hill on the NW corner (one can clearly see the salt ponds being the two with dark brown water)

I think it was 2 posts ago where I wrote of the RMS Rhone onto which I dived with some friends...

The story of the RMS Rhone has pricked and prodded my curiosity ... I have yet to discover the exact location of the anchor which was cut away by the captain at the entrance to Great Harbour, but find it I will ... and definitely prior to departing from these waters.

In the meantime, I had decided to sail across to Salt Island and find the graves of those that had tragically perished with the sinking of the Rhone, most of whom had been tied to their beds by order of the captain, for their own safe keeping and in a bid to not have people running about being panic stricken in a sea boiling under the force of a hurricane.

As we headed toward Salt Island Bay (North side of Salt Island) I looked across toward Lee Bay on the island's western shore and reflected on the wreck of the RMS Rhone lying metes below, reflected on my dive to see her and the thoughts which had raced through my mind whilst down there.

Lee Bay off Salt Island ... the rocks on the far right are those that broke the back of the RMS Rhone 

I looked at the very rocks which had broken the back of the ship and reflected on some literature I had come across since then, a report which followed immediately after this hurricane to the authorities back in 1867.

Part of a report to the authorities at that time which covered a wide range of destruction in the 'West Indies' included a statement with regard to the RMS Rhone which can be viewed at the end of this letter.

This report was clearly written by a man who was alarmed at the devastation he had come across.  He appeared to be in a hurry to convey the report to his authorities and admits to writing it in a 'very hurried and disjointed manner', but none the less reveals some aspects to that event that make it clear to me that some of the material we have read and heard about has not been accurately conveyed in later times.

An example of this would be the Conway which according to some had lost all hands on deck as the hurricane hit. When reading this report one realizes this not to have been the case ... the Conway in fact had beached itself in Tortola.

I consulted a number of local people here about this and was advised that in fact the Conway had run aground on the western side of Baughers Bay which is on the eastern shore of Road Harbour.

Another interesting fact, is that the RMS Rhone, at the time, had not sunk to the depths where it lies today .... Captain L.Vessey reported to having seen the poop rail protruding above the water and although the deck was under water he could detect the ship being' broken in two ... her head slewed to the north ...'

ANYWAY ... back to being on board Impi and headed for Salt Island Bay ... my mind reflected over all these events as we rounded the NW tip of Salt Island and determined a suitable spot to drop anchor in Salt Island Bay.

As we entered the bay I looked over to Ana and said that at first glance the island seemed to be abandoned and desolate ... we had become accustomed to the fact that more often than not we would not see more than another yacht or two (sometimes none at all) whilst sailing the BVI's on account of it being 'out of season', but somehow and in spite of  being aware of a lack of people during this season, the island felt to me to be a 'ghost island'.

We discussed this for a while, the weather was not the best as it was overcast with the odd but short lived down pour of rain, all was incredibly silent, the sea had an uneasy motion and awkward 'roll' to it, the buildings are derelict and the beach was certainly not 'combed' , the vegetation was dry for the most part revealing yellowish brown hills with the odd sprinkle of green ... a portable construction type toilet had been blown over by the wind and was banging up against the wooden dock ... 

I felt those same feelings I had felt when I first drove through the desert region of Namibia back in Africa and came across one of the few windswept ghost towns there ... walls being battered by sand and the odd clanging of a door or window frame that had not yet been swallowed by the sand ...

We dropped anchor not far from the jetty and let out a good length of chain as we did not want Impi to drag onto the rocks ... we were not sure of the seabed conditions and the sea was uneasy in this little bay ...

Below our keel we could see the bottom, no more than 1.5 meters below ... Impi swung stern to the dock no more than 5 meters from it ... 

We decided to watch the motion of the ocean for a while and be sure that Impi would be safe. We put a huge amount of faith in our Rocna anchor which on so many occasions has proved to be superior than many others in that it has held fast whilst we have seen other yachts slip past us in a struggle for grip ...

It's on occasions such as these that I am grateful to my old friend Graeme back at Seaport Supplies in South Africa for recommending I go up a size on the recommended Rocna anchor for our boat ... the lad could never have guessed how many times we would shout out the words 'thank you Graeme' as we entered an area where a number of yachts were reeling in their anchor chains for a next attempt at getting it to set and ours would grab first time ...

The current shifted yet again and we were were concerned about a shoal extending out just to the east of the dock which carries a depth which could result in Impi touching ground.

For this reason we lifted our anchor and rather opted for slightly deeper water although the pitch and roll was more uneasy the deeper we were.

We commented on the dock / jetty which seemed like it had had a recent revamp complete with new timber ... we wondered if there were plans to upgrade the island ... why a new jetty on an island that seems so desolate?

We looked to the west and observed the graves of those who had perished during the hurricane which destructed the RMS Rhone.

Now comfortable that Impi was happily settled in at anchor we lowered the dingy and tied off at the jetty.

We stood there for a while ... looked around us and were bewildered at the buildings which now were in ruin. The beach, although beautiful, had the odd bit of rubble lying on it and clearly had not been cleaned for some time ... we both felt it had a wildness about it ... a loneliness but in that a certain beauty ... nature was reclaiming its territory although we knew that this would be temporary as some authority or corporate entity was bound to move in sometime in the near future and change all that! 

Ana and I walked from the jetty and strolled between ruined structures, bits of timber, rubble and scrub ... a short distance ... and there it was, the salt pond for which the island is known and from whence it got its name ... Salt Island.

The water on the salt pond was ripple free revealing a perfect mirror of the surrounding hills which encapsulated it to the west, south and east. 

The pond emitted a strange musty smell and the presence of salt could be seen along the shoreline where it had crusted as it baked in the sun. Salt was an important commodity in the days of old before refrigeration as it was used to preserve meats and fish ... of course the invention of refrigeration was the demise of the lucrative salt mining activity. The sea water seeps into the pond through the sediments from the ocean that continually supply salts.

I raised my camera and took a few shots ... there was not a sound to be heard ... not a person to be seen anywhere ... 

For a while we walked through the various buildings and structures ... they were in ruin and we wondered what this was all about.

We observed a few random graves which had been created near the buildings, the last of which was George Adolf Leonard (1956 - 2012) 

Interestingly enough the funeral proceedings including the digging of the grave and burial can be viewed at https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.404261556264084.90112.144713582218884&type=3

From what I can gather, it seems there have not been any permanent residents on the island for some time now ... the earliest time I could trace an official account of the Leonard (Lennard) family on Salt Island is 'Leonard, William Henry, Born 1864 in Salt Island, British Virgin Islands, Died 1951 in Salt Island, British Virgin Islands'. 

Of course his parents were then living on the island for him to have been born there, and perhaps they were among those residing on the island at the time who assisted the survivors of the RMS Rhone and recovered certain bodies and in latter years bones which were buried along with the others in the mass grave.

A National Geographic series, 'Is it real?', ran a documentary on Salt Island and RMS Rhone in order to investigate the reports from professional divers who claimed that the Rhone was haunted.

They say they heard strange noises described as groans and screams and they felt tugging on their shoulders whilst diving in the decaying hulls.
Ana and I smiled at the thought of this as the island does have an eerie sort of feel about it.

I am told that two individuals names stand out in the history of time that belongs to this island ... One is that of Norwell Durant who was the last of the inhabitants to 'mine salt'. He passed away in February 2004.

Apparently, he along with others over the many years were responsible for sending any small artifacts found belonging to the deceased passengers of RMS Rhone back to England, together with a bag of salt each and every year which was sent to the queen on her birthday.

The other name is that of Clementine Helena Leonard Smith, born on 9 May 1911.

She gave birth to 9 children and spent her days tending to the burial ground of passengers from the wreck of the Rhone, maintained beaches and the salt ponds and saw to it that any tourists visiting the island would not leave before being educated with history and stories of island folklore. 

Officially recognized for her efforts in 1985, Clementine received the British Empire Member Medal, and in 1996 the Frederick Pickering Memorial Foundation honored her for social and cultural contributions. On 14 May 2002 she died and was buried in the graveyard that she cared for during her many years on Salt Island.  We are grateful to her grand child for correcting us and sharing her obituary which can be seen here http://dspace.hlscc.org/jspui/handle/123456789/942.

Ana and I had walked through the various buildings and structures and meandered along various pathways and along the waters edge of the pan ... it was time to see the grave where the unfortunate people from the RMS Rhone had been buried.

We walked up along the beach and past the 'main house' (what's left of it) and Jetty ... up and along the shoreline until we eventually reached the site.





It was time to find Ana, time to return to Impi and sail across sunset waters to our Deadman's Bay off Peter Island ...



Part of a report to the authorities at that time which covered a wide range of destruction in the 'West Indies' included the following statement with regard to the RMS Rhone ... a few extracts:
Footnote from above:
.... In Tortola Roads I observed the R. M. Steamer “Conway” dismasted and funnel gone..
.... Before leaving Tortola, I boarded the R. M. S. packet “Conway” and here Commander informed me that at 9 A. M. on the 29th, he was lashed alongside the “Rhone” off Peters’ Island -- transferring cargo -- that he saw the “Rhone’s” barometer standing at 30 inches, that shortly after -- the Commander of the “Rhone” (Capt. Wooley) said to him-- that he did not like the look of the weather, and as the hurricane season was over, it must be a Norther brewing, and that he should shift to an anchorage under the Northern Islands. The “Conway” then cast off and whilst steaming across, was struck by the blast, rose suddenly and burst in her ports – the ship being in danger of foundering – and a lull coming – suddenly he thought the wind was going to shift, and put her head to S.W. He had hardly done so, when the blast struck her, blowing away funnel and mainmast, and if they had not providentially drifted into Tortola Roads and ashore – nothing could have saved them – she has since been got off.
....  After having done all I can at St. Thomas, it is my intention to return to Tortola with plank and shingles – and when I have provided some shelter for the inhabitants I shall visit the outlying Islands and afterward tow the “Conway” to St. Thomas.
...  I transmit herewith copies of the Consul’s dispatch to me from St. Thomas – also of the President of the Virgin Islands letter to His Excellency Governor C. B. Hill – Antigua – and of His Excellency’s dispatch to me. I append a register of the barometer on the 29th October as received from R. Mail Steamer “Conway” – St. Thomas Nov. 5, 1867.
...  I have seen one of the survivors from the “Rhone” – John Metcalfe able seaman – who was an invalid from a merchant vessel at Trinidad. From his, and other accounts, I learn that the “Rhone” tried to weigh, that the shackle of the cable caught in the hawse pipe and parted, that she then tried to steam to sea, that steaming full power, head to wind – she went astern on to the rocks at Salt Island, heeled over, and broke in two – the passengers (130) who were lashed on deck, being swallowed up in the chasm. Amongst them, I regret to say, were Dr. Henry Arnst, late surgeon of this ship. Isaac German, late AB and Leading Seaman: Charles Peek and Benjamin Hough, who were invalided from us, and left Barbados on the 26th October.
... The survivor (Metcalfe) swam to the foremast and was taken off the fore topsail yard next day at about 8 A.M. The “Rhone” went on shore about 2 P.M. I think about 130 were lost in her (all passengers) There was one Italian saved and a Mr. Thomas Bibbon – and Mr. and Mrs. King of Barbados are included among the lost. The Body of the latter is supposed to have been picked up. All the officers of the “Rhone” were lost and only about 25 people (crew) saved, including the boatswain.
....  I have written this letter in a very hurried and disjointed manner – as the Mail Str. “Douro” sails this evening – I have much to do, and am obliged to get information as I can.
......
...  I start tomorrow (6 Nov.) with a piece of temporary funnel for the “Conway” at Tortola, and I shall carry a quantity of plank, etc. which I have bought at the public expense for the purpose of housing the inhabitants of Tortola, and the Virgin Islands, who are British subjects.
... With reference to the storm – I can only say now, that it occurred after the season was supposed to be over – as the first full moon in October was on the 13th. It was the fourth hurricane or indication of one, which we have had during this peculiar season.
... When the hurricane passed, the barometer gave no warning though the weather did, and all thought it was to be a norther. The barometer fell and rose during the breeze, and the vortex passed directly over these places – it seemed to be traveling slowly to the westward. The thunder was terrific – shocks of earthquakes were felt and the electricity was so intense that compasses were useless. Darkness set in and vegetation was destroyed. The sea water was caught up – the particles _______ called “hail” have injured people but this perhaps may be thought improbable. It will be observed that vessels masts were literally blown out of them – and that a 14 knot steamer was blown astern and wrecked when steaming full speed ahead.
... I need not cite further instances of the power of the gale. All the vessels that tried to go to sea were lost with nearly all hands – and an American ship, blown out of this harbour, has foundered. The whole of this ruin and devastation occurred in the brief space of two hours.
... I earnestly submit for their Lordships consideration, whether the system lately adopted of keeping Her Majesty’s ships at sea during the hurricane season, is a good one – and can only say that my own opinion, after fourteen years experience in the West Indies, is that no man-of-war could have weathered such a blow, if caught at sea, and that these Islands for the next two years will be liable to similar visitations.
As far as I can learn, this hurricane has caught Anguilla, Virgin Islands, Tortola, St. Thomas, Culebra, and the northwest end of Porto Rico. It was going for Turks Island and the Bahamas.
Your most obedient servant
L. Vessey, Captain and Senior Officer
Divn. N.A.T.M.

The graves were covered in old coral and one could see that the area, although rough, had been maintained and 'respected'.

Ana sat on the small stone perimeter and looked at the different corals that had been packed here.

We sat and stared out over the sea where Impi lay to anchor as our minds scrambled to understand what the island was all about ... how it came to pass that celebrities such as Morgan Freeman had sat under a palm tree here with Norwell Durant chatting about the days of old ... minds filled with intrigue and a sense of longing to understand the island ... to understand the feeling of loneliness and sadness mingled with a sense of peace and somehow authentic island beauty despite all the rubble and ruin!

I scrambled up the to the top of the hill on the north western shore and gazed out over the vastness of the British Virgin Islands ... the views of islands across the sea ... views of my favourite Peter Island and Deadman's Chest, Tortola and many of the others. Reflections of the sun peeped between fast moving clouds changing colours in such a fashion as to memorize the mind.

I looked down over Salt Island Bay ... down on Impi below ... from my new high point of sight my heart felt delight in the sense of adventure as I beheld the expanse of the sea she now lay at anchor to ... seas we navigate, sail and have sailed a number of times now lay glistening and shimmering to the colors of the sun ... I was on top of the world and my soul sang with delight and joy as my eyes soaked in the beauty of these surrounds.

Looking around I admired the beauty of the salt ponds below, nestled in a ring of mountainous hills that displayed colours of yellow and green mingled with brown as the sun, although diffused mostly by cloud, played it's magical show in highlighting these!

Ana had remained at the beach ... I called out to her from my lofty position ... she heard me not!

We were alone, not a soul to be seen, not a boat nearby ... the two of us on our own island for the entire day ... this was amazing! 

I hiked down the back end of the ridge and looking down could see the rocks which had claimed the fate of the RMS Rhone  ... the mooring balls to which dive boats tie to were a give away of the spot in which it now lay. My mind rallied as my eyes shifted to either side of these rocks ... had the RMS Rhone left a moment earlier than it did, the boat would have been clear, or at least and at worst washed onto the beach of South Bay ... 

As I descended along the ridge I stopped on occasion to take in the changing perspective of the view ... I admired the beauty as I could see from one side of the island to the next, the bays and salt pans, the little structures where once a community lived on a sandy strip between the waters of the sea and those of the pan ... beautiful! 

What a day this had been ... an awkward climate to take any decent photographs in, but yet there was a certain beauty in that too ... the beauty and curiosity one finds in a desolate place ... the island ... Salt Island!

*....   At 7 A.M. next morning (3 Nov.) in rounding Salt Island, I passed the wreck of the R. M. S. Packet “Rhone”. Her poop rail was close to a large boulder on the W. point, but the hull was standing under water – the foremast was standing, but the vessel herself was broken in two and her head slewed to the North – 50 yards either way – would have put her into a sandy Bay

...  The “Rhone’s” steam was up just as the “Conway” left her – but Captain Wooley hailed that he could not steam against such a breeze, and endeavoured to get to sea, but when the drift and rain cleared off, she was next seen on Salt Island. I fear that in the “Rhone” great loss of life occurred – 23 only were saved as far as I can yet learn, namely 4 men who were found on the fore top sail yard – which is above water – a few got on shore, and ten others and the 4th Officer were found in the Sound, clinging to the lifeboat. (St. Thomas 5 Nov. 67, 4th officer drowned) These people have all been sent to St. Thomas – and doubtless more authentic information respecting her loss will be furnished from them.

... I have the honor to be

Sir