Of course we are running somewhat behind with our news now … can hardly believe we are already in Tonga.
We had last spoken of our visit to Bora Bora and from there we had a days sail across to Maupiti - interestingly enough warned by many sailors to give it a miss on account of the dangerous entrance!
We had sat in Bora Bora listening to a rescue transmission over VHF ch 16 as the French Coast Guard was interacting with the skipper of a stricken vessel. The vessel had hit the reef at the entrance to Maupiti and was sinking … you may recall the story from our last post under Bora Bora and the photos of the yacht!
Anyhow, we were determined to visit Maupiti - we have heard of its beauty and charm and it was not going to be an island we would pass by without perhaps feeling some disappointment for not having visited it to the future …
And so we planned the passage well and of course with that the weather window too!
Our trip to Maupiti was in good winds and a steady sea and as we approached the island Ana and I held our breaths hoping to find the entrance without too many waves and strong currents.
We passed one catamaran which had just left Maupiti … called them up on the VHF radio and asked about the conditions. They had made use of the service of a local fisherman and guide to escort them out through the entrance as they were afraid of the conditions there … the skipper said it gets confusing with the cross currents and in particular on this day the current was pulling hard to the west which required the vessel to work its engines and keep closer to the east side of the channel. He said the fisherman kept calling them to say they should be more east …
I found this quite strange as from what we could gather there is not much width to this entrance, so how much closer to the east does one really want to be of the centre line up here?
Anyway, armed now with this additional information we approached Maupiti entrance …. you know that feeling one sometimes gets … a feeling of apprehension overtaken by a feeling of determination and ‘lets get on with this then’ …
Approaching the entrance is ‘interesting’ … waves break along the entrance from both sides and it looks at first as if we were to ‘surf these waves in’, but as one aligns the boat and gets in really close, the conditions we met certainly were no cause for alarm …
The channel is well marked and, yes, it is quite narrow but on the one hand not much more than some of the atolls we had visited … all seemed calm enough and sure enough there was a current flowing out to sea as we were well aware of … some 9 knots … the current is generated from the sea rushing in through gaps in the reef system and of course flushing out through the entrance, but … in all honesty, there was not much excitement to be found and we thought the experience was pretty tranquil.
The greatest danger we faced was the island’s beauty … one dares not take one’s eyes and focus of the movement of the boat through this entrance, but at the same time one cannot help but find one's eyes being drawn into the surrounding beauty … it becomes mesmerising and is a distraction that probably has seen some sailors in trouble going up here!
Ana and I both commented on the clarity of the water to both sides of us …. the little beaches and some cute little ‘cottage shacks’ …
Impi cruised up into and through the entrance with no hassle at all … it seemed to be one of the milder entries we had experienced into these style islands in the Pacific, but then again, we probably got the weather just right …
We used the GoPro camera to film the entry for sailors who are curious … thought it was going to be ‘high action’ by what some had said of it … and from the footage you will note it was anything but …
We used the GoPro camera to film the entry for sailors who are curious … thought it was going to be ‘high action’ by what some had said of it … and from the footage you will note it was anything but …
Anyway, cruising up here is magnificent … there are those typically beautiful turquoise blues toward the reef and shallows and the darker blues in deeper water … and up ahead … oh my goodness … such a beaut of an island Maupiti has a terrific mountain with a steep and very prominent rocky cliff face that reaches up out of the water for the sky …
As we meandered up and in to the island lagoon, we soon found ourselves at a little dock / harbour area below the mountain cliff … ducked to the right of it and dropped anchor off a sandy shelf …
And backing down onto the anchor to get it properly set, we relaxed the engines and shut everything down for a relaxed, calm and very beautiful surrounding landscape that immediately overwhelms one with a feeling of pure bliss and peace in mother nature's paradise …
As the evening approached Ana and I sat on the patio and marvelled as the bay turned all colours of the rainbow in a beautiful setting sun!
Here at anchor we slept as usual with the hatches open and listened as the waves from the ocean caught up with the reef surprising it with its thunderous roar … we are so happy to be here … here on the last island Impi would visit before slipping off out of French Territorial waters into the Pacific beyond.
The following morning we delighted in a visit to the little town …
But before we arrived at the town we came across some locals fishing … here they were in shallow water over the sand bar … one fella up on the bow with a spear and keeping watch when all of a sudden there was a great deal of commotion as these guys dived overboard … spreading nets and throwing spears they emerged with a bounty of fish and huge smiles on their faces …
Ana and I spent much of the day with these good folks watching and observing their sharp techniques for providing food for their families …
These folks have little … there is not much else for them on the island to make money from … this is how they survive … it is what they do to provide for their families … and to our surprise they offered us a few fish from their catch.
Of course we were overwhelmed by this display of generosity … I mean … they have so little and in this willingness to give of their catch, they showed us they are willing to give much …
We tried at first to resist their offer … we gestured that they had worked hard for their catch and they needed it for their families, but they insisted and we felt we did not want to offend them by saying ‘no’ … and so we gratefully took from them 3 fish … headed back to Impi and got some cartons of beer which was hugely appreciated by the fellas.
The town is very basic but picturesque …
Of course a church stands tall and proud above most buildings and along the water's edge …
Here one will find one or two very small shops that are not well stocked but carry the essentials and nothing else …
A walk along the the water's edge is beautiful and leads from the town down to the harbour area … and all along this pathway are little jetties splitting off toward the sea where locals hoist their vessels onto four posted stands … ( one can see this in the GoPro video we will share later in this letter)
The dock was a flurry on this particular day since the local ferry ship had arrived bringing all sorts of supplies to the island including some heavy machinery to effect repairs and modifications to the dock area itself.
A walk up the mountain proved to be too much for us in the sweltering heat and it is a pity we did not forge on ahead right to the very top but we got high enough to enjoy the views over the bay and in particular saw the beach on the western side which we wanted to visit.
Getting to the beach off a reef on the western side of the island requires navigating the dinghy through some incredibly shallow water … and the best way to keep the prop off the sand is to do this at speed …
We made a 'fun video' with the GoPro ... of course we are no pro at video work so don't expect too much, but one gets the idea of the shades of blues, the rays, the beaches and so on ...
Fun with the Dinghy - MAUPITI STYLE ... or is it IMPI STYLE?
http://youtu.be/wH1Lj821Ioc
The experience of skimming along in such transparent clear water with the prop JUST clearing the sand is incredible …
Everywhere there were these rays darting about … the sun was well positioned overhead and the ride there was something we will always remember as being one of those special moments in our lives …
Reaching the beach, one quickly feels to be in a deserted place with no one around and even though we came across a local family with a little hut in the bush, these folks were very shy and withdrew into their home …
Ana and I soaked up the vibe … lay about in the water near the dinghy for some time and just took in the tranquility of this place … ahhhh … a real treasure for the soul!
And then strolling along the beach edge around the point we just marvelled at the beauty of the shallow waters and the reef system glistening in the sun … and this was to be our back yard for the next few days.
A section of beach meets with the reef proper … and here we found these perfectly shaped ‘pools’ of warm water in the sand alongside a rocky outcrop …
Ana loved this … our own natural swimming pool in paradise … she lay in the water soaking in the sunshine and blues …
I always know when Ana has found a spot that really appeals to her ‘being’ … I mean here she was doing her yoga poses and freeing her spirit to blend and merge with nature …
And looking toward the mountain cliffs far in the distant yonder where Impi lay to anchor, she lifted her arms and rejoiced in the freedom of this paradise!
We explored most of the little motus dotted around but by far and wide, this was the greatest beach we had found … any visitors to the island are to be found on beaches closer to the entrance and the anchorage … but out here … there was no one to be seen and we made this our private beach for a while!
Ana and I went diving in the entrance … unfortunately left my GoPro on the boat, but we did get to see a number of manta rays, fish of all sorts, moray eels a plenty and would you believe, the very toxic stone fish … yes … a number of them …
Maupiti is truly a place not to be missed … the local people are incredibly friendly and relaxed … the beauty of nature here is amazing … and in true style … we just love these French Islands … We sure are going to miss the treasures of beautiful French Polynesia!
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