We had departed from the very pretty island of Maupiti and along with that exit so departed the French territorial waters of French Polynesia.
Ana took this photo with the iPad as we departed Maupiti for US SAMOA
We were headed for US SAMOA in less than ideal weather conditions.
We had been watching for good weather windows over a number of days … got emails on our sat phone which is a free service to cruisers by guru weatherman ‘Bob Mcdavitt’ who reports from New Zealand on conditions around the entire Pacific west of Tahiti … and by all accounts were thinking at this time of year we could be waiting forever for the perfect weather opportunity.
And so we set off knowing that we were going to be plagued by the SPCZ (South Pacific Convergence Zone) which is a zone of conflicting weather patterns, a zone where weather systems collide and mingle to compete for dominance and as a result an area one really would be better off avoiding altogether.
Impi sailed on … seas were high and and waves were predicted to be huge over 2 of the 7 days we would spend at sea …
Along the way we shot a few movie clips as Impi cruised along ... one squall passing overhead and followed by the next they marched across the ocean like regimental soldiers … thought it would make for some interesting footage as often people ask us to send photos or footage of Impi in the 'deep ocean far from view of land' … and … what is there to film really … just a lot of blue, and so often time shy away from this, but on this occasion we thought to share some moments with our friends where the winds get up to speed along with Impi too! Of course, a video from onboard somehow never captures an oceans true mood ..
Video Clip can be seen at the following link:
Our wonderful asymmetric sail was on its last legs from UV destruction over the years ... this of course was expected since it was the same sail we had left Cape Town in South Africa with … we knew it was not going to be with us for long but really hoped to have it last until we reached Fiji. It never did and decided to ‘give up’ on this crossing which really did not surprise us given the strong winds and material degradation.
Fortunately we had our new spinnaker which was very useful even if we had to put the wind behind us ...
Again ... a photo taken by Ana wiht he iPad - our spinnaker.
Fortunately we had our new spinnaker which was very useful even if we had to put the wind behind us ...
Again ... a photo taken by Ana wiht he iPad - our spinnaker.
Exactly 7 days at sea to the hour and Impi cruised into US SAMOA - Pago Pago … a place often avoided by sailors who say it is not a pretty island.
In fact, we were pleasantly surprised as we cruised into the bay … steep lush green mountains line the shores to every side here … and the entire area is really pretty.
This photo with the iPad shows our passage through the harbour and from where Impi has dropped anchor ...
Of course there is a ‘harbour’ here … and the smelly fish canneries which apparently do not operate on the scale they used to, but still produce a ‘fish smell’ often enough in the day to make one want to leave!
The harbour master instructed us to tie up to 2 yellow tug boats alongside the dock and ‘clear in’.
Ana took this photo of me with the iPad ... clambering over 2 tugboats to get to the harbourmaster for 'customs and clear in' (there is not enough room at the dock and one is not allowed to proceed to the anchorage) ... in fact this is me returning from the authority ...
Customs happily takes some money for the paperwork as does the harbour master … all in all $167 by the time we left!
Taken with the iPad - sticker on our welcoming tugboat ... :)
Taken with the iPad - sticker on our welcoming tugboat ... :)
The officials are sleepy and lazy and not ashamed of this fact … one fella slept with mouth wide open and head tilted back in the chair … he snored much like the sound of a D9 caterpillar dozer with a starter motor problem …
I looked at the other sleepy officials who are super friendly … once awake … pointed at the fella and said ‘what?’
The officials laughed and soon we engaged in chat around South Africa and Nelson Mandela, rugby and the mighty Springbok team … we laughed a lot and chatted about their superstar Jono Loma (spelling? played for New Zealand) which a number of islands lay claim to as being one of theirs and how I watched him run with an entire team of Springboks dragging them over the try line to score a try … they were so proud!
After some time chatting I said farewell … looked over to the sleeping official and slapped my hand onto the desk next to him … he snored on without so much as a flinch! The rest of the crew laughed loudly and it was time to go.
A long enough walk into town saw me eventually find the Immigration office … what a strange place to have this … miles from the airport and certainly no where close to the dock … I found this rather strange.
Despite my 10 year US visa they wanted to stamp the entry and exit for Pago Pago.
Hours later I got back to Impi where Ana was chatting to the local tug boat operators about the island and the history of the US takeover … was very interesting to hear what the fellas were saying!
We untied Impi and headed for the anchorage which is directly downwind of the fisheries … YAY !!!
In spite of this, we feel Pago Pago gets a ‘worse wrap’ than it deserves … the place is still very beautiful.
A short dinghy ride to a ‘floating dock’ sees one arrive at an area where the busses all gather to take passengers off in various directions.
$1 is a fee that will get tourists and locals alike to pretty much anywhere on the island, but we decided initially to get a feel for the place by walking the streets.
The entire town is super clean … there is almost no litter to be seen and it is obvious that huge campaigns are going onto keeping the place clean. There are boards up everywhere encouraging people to place litter into bins keep the island looking clean.
We spoke to some locals about this campaign … they explained to us that before westerners arrived on these islands, they all ate bananas and mangos along with other fruits and vegetables. They explained that nature's packaging of these items is biodegradable and as a result people grew up throwing everything to the ground as it simply rotted away. Now with everything in plastic wrappers and so on, they say they have simply followed the old tradition of throwing everything to the ground and as a result their island became a huge rubbish dump with litter lying everywhere.
In a recent bid to ‘build and encourage the industry of tourism’, they, the leaders of Pago Pago decided to campaign and educate the locals on the need for cleanliness and so on!
We have to say that the campaigning has produced impressive results.
As with many islands we visit, there are the old and new churches that have been built over time ...
There is a huge amount one can do on this island including some lovely hikes through the mountains and the opportunity to stay with locals in their homes, to eat their food and so on as one progresses along this trail. We opted for shorter trails and spent most of our time along the island's shores.
Here the great US of A (America) has stamped its mark! There are huge pick up trucks and V8 vehicles all over to be seen … and everywhere there are police cars and other vehicles that look clearly … American!
And so I guess it should be … this is a part of the USA and even shipping from the mainland of USA is shipped as if within the mainland of America.
Be careful of shipping though … one is easily confused by the mention of ‘priority mail’ which may go by ship and not by air’ versus the Express Priority Mail which goes by air.
The ship does not take the 10 days they say it will … unless the ship is fully loaded, but in most cases is not and will wait at Richmond, California until full before it departs for Pago Pago! BE WARNED fellow sailors - tracking numbers on this freight are sorely wrong! Make sure the parcel IS GOING BY AIR!
The great thing about shipping goods into Pago Pago is that there is no duty and no customs clearance required … you are shipping within the USA.
Ask me about Pago Pago and I will be sure to mention the bus rides. Oh man … we really LOVED the bus rides.
The bus in the photo above is among very few that are not the 'All American Super Trucks converted into buses' ...
These buses are typically American trucks which are modified by the locals to be buses. They take the roof off the vehicle and build a wooden structure all around to resemble a bus. The entire structure is wood … one walks up these steps onto a platform at what would be passenger seat height (of course the passenger seat is removed) … the drivers seat literally screwed into the wooden floor … pay his $1 fee and find a seat on one of the hard wooden benches … and we’re off!
Each driver decorates his bus according to his / her preference ... the same goes for the paintwork on the outside and the taste in music of course ...
A rather 'grainy photo' with the iPad, but this does give one an idea of what we are talking about here ...
Music systems THROB in these buses and depending on the bus one takes the music will be different, but most are authentic Samoan music which we really enjoyed.
The people are ever so friendly here … we got chatting to a number of locals on the buses who all wanted us to join them for a meal or some other event … truly, a friendlier people would be hard to find!
These buses will take one anywhere … and to stop it one literally pulls on a string along the roof which emits a sound to alert the drive to stop!
When one walks around the villages and towns of American Samoa, one gets the feeling that although not displayed and advertised to tourists, there is an underlying artistic flare about these wonderful people ... it seems to greet one everywhere ... on walls of buildings and sculptured into trees, on columns of buildings that are carved and so on ... and although there are art galleries about, I feel this is one area that needs more development amoungst the young ... art lives in the genes of these people ... it stems from the days of old ... well in the photo below ... it 'trunks' from the days of old
A carving out of a tree opposite the post office ...
A closer view ...
Art drawn on walls of buildings at the museum where one can see traditional craft and medicine and so on ... these paintings around the side of the building can easily be missed. Ana pointed these out to me and we found that when one pays attention to detail in this town, there is a lot of the traditional culture to be admired ... not always openly displayed and presented, the inattentive eye will not see and observe ...
One building in town has a painting of a man having caught a huge swordfish ... this really is relevant to the core of the traditions of these people who now are finding their culture being lost in 'Western Society influence' ...
Of course other forms of traditional 'art' can be found at the local supermarket where fruits and veggies are still sold in woven baskets ...
In the baskets below there is coca which they drink here in a similar way to South America i.e. it is used to make a tea rather than a milky drink as we in the 'west' do ...
Whilst we were in Pago Pago we saw the traditional vessels we had spoken of previously in our letters ... the HOKULEA and HIKIANALIA which Ana and I saw arriving in Raiatea and Tahaa. We wrote a little about this in that blog which can be seen at this link ... http://cat-impi.blogspot.com/2014/09/cruising-waters-of-raiatea-and-tahaa.html
I took the photo below at American Samoa
These traditional canoes seem to be voyaging to the same islands we are as we seem to meeting up with them every where (even now as I write from Tonga, they are tied to the dock here).
These boats which are spreading the word for all nations to preserve and protect our oceans ... and for all people to work together ... should be in Cape Town, South Africa 2016 ... so family and friends there ... be on the look out and be sure to visit these traditional vessels ...
We wonder if we on Impi will not be back in Cape Town to celebrate 'circumnavigating the globe' by then ...
Anyway ... back to American Samoa ...
As cruisers, we are warned by various people and guides that 'appropriate dress' is an important requirement here. This means that women should wear long pants or dresses, and men are to wear longer style shorts and so on. We often find this laughable ... so many cruisers would still have one believe this to be relevant but on all the islands we have visited where this is made to feel as a requirement, the locals have told us ... 'in the days of old ... but today ... we welcome visitors to dress the way they want to'. Of course a pair of 'hot pants' or similar would attract some whistles and honking so it would be an unusual sight for these folks ...
The locals then spoke of certain 'strong women' who stood up in the face of society's expectations of them and how successful and independent these women had become.
One such example we assumed, is that of Sadie ... at Sadie's Restaurant and bar where there is a sign posted outside saying it all !
We so enjoyed the local folks on this island … they are most certainly the friendliest lot we have met worldwide on our travels so far, and they are generous beyond measure!
Ana and I were busy buying diesel at a gas station … had packed some containers up at the top of steps to carry down to the dinghy and went back to fill some more.
Two ladies were sitting at the top of the steps eating and drinking as it was their lunch time … when we returned with the other containers these girls had carried them down to the dinghy for us.
I tried giving them some money - they refused - offered coke or some food - they refused! They said it was in their nature to help others … oh boy … what have we city folk become …
Of course, and as with any place in the world, there are the ‘bad apples’.
We met a cruiser on his yacht who came across to me and said he was from America and was sailing around the Pacific when he headed into Pago Pago. He dropped anchor near the shore and as he told me the story he pointed to his yacht anchored near a tree off the shore!
He said that 2 young men swam out to his boat whilst he slept … climbed up onto the yacht and beat him over the head with a baseball bat!
He said his head was split open and pointing to a lengthy scar showed me wounds!
‘I grabbed the bat’ he said … ‘blood was everywhere and I felt weak but held for dear life onto the bat’.
He told me that the other guy grabbed a chord and wrapped it around his neck and placing a wooden rod wound it up so tight as to choke him at which point he remembers nothing more of the incident.
He says a local lady saw the fellas swimming to his boat and called the police. Unfortunately the land police had been called and could do nothing from the shore except call for the marine police to go there by boat. The police arrived and caught both men ransacking the boat and covered in blood.
The cruiser explained that he had to stay in Pago Pago for a year until the trial was completed. He rejoiced saying the judge had just awarded a 27 year prison sentence to the men for their efforts … without the opportunity for parol! Justice is served in US style, ‘but', says the old cruiser to me, ‘I feel a bit apprehensive about sailing on. These local people have gathered money together for me to feed me, replace all my damaged equipment and to support me over the last year. I feel these people have given me everything they can … they have so little yet they give so much!’
And so it is with Pago Pago … I would not feel a need to visit the island for longer than 2 weeks, but would encourage sailors going there, to mingle with the people … it is the people that make this island a true gem and a wonderful place to visit!
Yachts tied up off Malola Marina ... Impi can just be seen anchored in the background to the left behind a mono hull ...
Some additional information for sailors who are visiting American Samoa :
Diesel:
Diesel can be obtained through contact with the Harbour Master and diesel at the dock will be cheaper than that of the local garage alongside, however, we found many promises of scheduled time arrangements to take on fuel cancelled as a result of fishing and other larger vessels. Diesel at the harbour dock, at this time of writing sells for $3.96/gal and at the local garage $4.26/gal.
We had to eventually settle for taking on diesel at the local garage due to a narrow weather window we wanted to use to get down to Tonga.
Shopping:
Hop on a bus for $1 and head for TAFUNA where you will find 'Cost U Less'. Tell the bus driver as you board and he will know where to stop ... it is a lengthy ride. Also, since you will want to take the bus back to the dock, be sure to take along a rack sac or two each as room in the bus is limited and the driver will want you to place all items near the door in an area where there is 'limited space' ...
A little further up the road one gets a local supermarket ... we think called KS Mart (or similar) ... it was better stocked with more varied items in small containers. We would suggest visiting both before doing major shops.
A local small shop near the dinghy dock at the anchorage (go out and turn to your right) carries some items that are cheaper such as cartons of 'long life milk', Tomato ready pasta sauce and so on. If you have a lot to carry from here, then tie up at the local marina (MALOLA MARINA) next door.
Diesel:
Diesel can be obtained through contact with the Harbour Master and diesel at the dock will be cheaper than that of the local garage alongside, however, we found many promises of scheduled time arrangements to take on fuel cancelled as a result of fishing and other larger vessels. Diesel at the harbour dock, at this time of writing sells for $3.96/gal and at the local garage $4.26/gal.
We had to eventually settle for taking on diesel at the local garage due to a narrow weather window we wanted to use to get down to Tonga.
Shopping:
Hop on a bus for $1 and head for TAFUNA where you will find 'Cost U Less'. Tell the bus driver as you board and he will know where to stop ... it is a lengthy ride. Also, since you will want to take the bus back to the dock, be sure to take along a rack sac or two each as room in the bus is limited and the driver will want you to place all items near the door in an area where there is 'limited space' ...
A little further up the road one gets a local supermarket ... we think called KS Mart (or similar) ... it was better stocked with more varied items in small containers. We would suggest visiting both before doing major shops.
A local small shop near the dinghy dock at the anchorage (go out and turn to your right) carries some items that are cheaper such as cartons of 'long life milk', Tomato ready pasta sauce and so on. If you have a lot to carry from here, then tie up at the local marina (MALOLA MARINA) next door.
AMERICAN SAMOA - A GREAT PLACE TO STOCK UP SUPPLIES, TO GET SPARE PARTS SHIPPED FROM THE US MAINLAND - TERRIFIC, VERY FRIENDLY PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO INTERACT WITH ONE - BEAUTIFUL VIEWS WITH A FISHY SMELL - A GREAT 'STOP OVER FOR A WEEK OR TWO' - A WEEK SHOULD DO !!!
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